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RESEARCH SHOWS THAT YOUR FACE CREAMS DON’T DELIVER WHAT THEY PROMISE

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Do you know that lot of skin care products have liposomes which are tiny nanoparticles made out of same material as the cell membrane? They send ingredients to skin cells to boost collagen production. It reduces aging and wrinkles.

Breakthrough Study

Researchers at the Southern Denmark University did an experiment using Nanoscope technologies that showed that “liposomes do not cross the skin barrier”. The research has been published in the peer-reviewed PLUS ONE journal. Researchers used fluorescence dynamics testing different areas of skin with various color dyes monitoring how it penetrates the skin. The results of the study showed that the liposomes break apart on the surface of the skin, indicating that they do not stay intact and permeate efficiently.

In a press release, Jonathan Brewer, an associate professor of biochemistry and molecular biology said that they have used a different method to establish once for all that liposomes don’t penetrate the surface of the skin. This research has changed the way we need to look at the liposomes. It is crucial, especially for skin care companies. Earlier these were perceived as layers for protection which transport agents under the skin.

Nikita Wilson, a cosmetic chemist, states that it is important to know that the liposomes are still valid to some extent even if they can’t penetrate skin barrier reaching the cellular level. He says liposomes hold the integrity of sensitive elements like resveratrol in the bottle keeping them intact for application to reach the skin’s surface. It will work as they are meant to work.

Whitney Bowe, MD from New York who is also an Assistant medical director of Laser and Cosmetic services at Advanced Dermatology, says she is not discouraged by the studies findings. She says liposomes are still capable of penetration of the active ingredients. She looks out for the data showing the difference these actives make in the skin. Does study show increased Collagen synthesis? Does the skin behave in a different way after using the product for a few weeks? These questions mean more to her than whether liposomes remain intact and cross the skin barrier.

The research group used a nanoscope which is a unique microscope to get deep into the skin and study the effects. They were able to see the liposomes and molecules using this technique. It led to the study of the liposome processes and the activity at the microscopic level. The new technique provided the valuable information into cell functionality at that minute level. It showed that liposomes do not transport active agents under the skin but help agents in some other way to get under the skin.

Implication Of The Study

As the study concluded, though it may not directly cross the barrier, it still helps agents to get absorbed into the skin.


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